living it up

It is suddenly hitting me that my summer abroad is coming to a close. All the traveling, sight seeing and picture taking has made time whir by and suddenly we have less than ten precious European days slipping out of our hands. We are living it up these last two weeks, however. Monjira's parents visited from July 10-17 and on their last night they took us out to dinner and a jazz show in a Plaza off of la rambla. The jazz show was amazing! Two classical guitars accompanied a female vocalist who sang with passion and soul. The venue was reminiscent of a Chicago comedy club- brick walls, low lights and comfortable bench/chairs. Very intimate and relaxing.

In class these past few weeks we've been learning about the amazing, innovative and genius architecture (engineering) of Gaudí, who lived and designed- in Barcelona. During the first 5 weeks of our trip here we visited La Pedrera (aka Casa Mila). Another Gaudí "house," also located on Pg De Gracía, a famous shopping boulevard here in Barce, called Casa Batillo is also open for visits. We weren't going to visit both La Pedrera AND Casa Batillo but our interest in Gaudí was peaked by our teacher and we just had to see it! And boy, are we glad that we did! Gaudí designed the whole house based on an under the sea theme. Everything, from the furniture, to the handrail banisters to the tiles and light fixtures are reminiscent of underwater themes. There is BEAUTIFUL stained glass everywhere, of varying and gradient colors and ceramic tiles, too. Gaudí did not build a SINGLE straight wall in the house! Imagine that! The walls are all curved and molded (by hand) in circular shapes and round arcs. Not only is this aesthetically pleasing, but it also is functional. It allows for light (from skylights as well as windows) to fill the space. The air moves smoothly throughout the house thanks to Gaudí's genius and far ahead of his time inventions of air slots in the doors. The rich mahogany mixed with forged steel fixtures is such a royal and expressive look. It was honestly breathtaking. The tour ends on the roof, covered in hand broken tiles (a technique called "Trencadiz") and sculptures. You can look out to the city of Barcelona below, with all of its amazing architectural wonders, taxis whirring by and ocean in the background. It was an amazing experience.

When I say we've been living it up, I'm not lying. Friday night we attended a concert of "Opera y Flamenco" at the Palau de la Musica Catalana. This is another famous architectural wonder. The ceiling centerpiece of stained glass is jaw-dropping. Everything on the walls and ceiling is covered in bright colors and ornate decorations. We loved the show, too. There were several males and female voices accompanied by string instruments (including the BEST classical guitar I have ever heard in my life!!) and Flamenco dancing in traditional costumes with clapping! The mix of opera music, flamenco dancing and classical instruments sounds strange but it was amazing. It was an aesthetically pleasing masterpiece of a show. Afterwards we wandered out into the barrio gotico to take a few drinks at a bar. It was a night of humidity and darkness but the narrow cobblestone streets were full of young people and middle aged folks, everyone in hot, summer clothes, speaking a variety of languages and drinking and laughing. The city was alive and dancing right along with us.

In exactly 7 days we will be back on a plane to the USA. I cannot lie and say that I am not counting down those hours until I am back in my parent's arms, back to HOT (not perpetually cold) showers, back to a REAL pillow and a REAL bed and a ceiling fan and all of my other creature comforts. But a part of me will miss Spain, too. Since we depart so soon we invited our entire host family (Montse, her son Didac and his girlfriend Ana) to take a late lunch with us today. We went to an AMAZING hole-in-the-wall rice restaurant that Didac recommended in our neighborhood. It was the best paella/rice dish I have EVER HAD in my entire life! We had a blast! After the meal Montse gifted us girls little fans!! We have all been complaining of the heat and she had suggested days ago that we buy a small, hand fans like many of the women here carry in the street to battle the intense Mediterranean sun and humidity. We couldn't find a good one when we went to Madrid and we basically gave up after that. Seeing our struggle she purchased the PERFECT thing and we were so happy! It was a delightful exchange and yet another fantastic time with our host family. She made the experience great.

While it is hard to live in someone else's house, with different cultural norms and rules, I learned a lot from doing so. It was not always easy or fun, but we know we are going to miss her a lot when we leave. I tear up thinking about saying goodbye. She has been our rock these past 10 weeks- helping us with directions, trying to keep us from being hungry and teaching us a MOUNTAIN of information, vocabulary and speaking skills. I have realized that all that matters is perspective. If Monj and I had been negative about all that we are lacking here (because there is a lot) we would have had a horrible time and also missed the boat entirely. We have had an amazing summer simply because we made it thus for ourselves.


(Sidenote: the restaurant was completely gluten free friendly and had clearly marked what dishes I could and could not eat right on the menu. Furthermore, they had gluten free bread for me to enjoy with everyone else, hot out of the oven, before the meal! I was so happy and also felt like less of an outsider with my food allergies. I was able to take part in the human, social aspect that comes along with sharing food and laughter simultaneously...)

Oslo, Norwegia

I am so blessed and thankful to have spent the past weekend in Oslo, Norway with my friend Nora, who grew up and lives there. Not only was Nora a fantastic tour guide (in our short window of 48 hours) but she is also extremely hospitable, a seasoned traveler and a mature friend. We enjoyed each others company and I was able to see the best of Oslo!

I left home in Barcelona via taxi at 4:45am on Friday. It was a long morning of traveling but well worth it because my bus from the airport to central Oslo got in before noon. Nora met me at the bus station and we immediately started seeing the sights! (Thank god I only packed a small backpack). First we went to see the Oslo Opera House. I noticed, as the bus drove me closer and closer to the city center, that many of the buildings were very modern and innovative. The Opera House was no exception. It is a relatively new building and gorgeous! We walked on the roof and could see the whole bay/harbor area as well as a small view of the city. From there we saw the military fortress, had lunch on the shore (at a restaurant with gluten free pizza!!) and also trekked up to the Royal Palace and the gardens. Nora took me to the "naked park" which is a famous sculpture garden area and we bought little strawberries to take into the grass. There we sat and enjoyed the sun (and cool weather!) and chatted. It was so peaceful.

The air in Norway was different than anything else I had ever experienced. It was fresh and crisp and dry but also smelled slightly of salt, presumably from the fjords. Northern Europe in general is so vastly different than Spain! I was definitely in culture shock for most, if not all, of my time there simply because everything seemed opposite! Everyone was tall and blonde, which sounds funny but is actually true, and everything was clean and remote. Even though there were tourists, there was such a sense of space and personal space that I never felt overwhelmed. Spain lacks this sense of personal space, which as an American I am accustomed to. The streets were spotlessly clean and the public transportation was as well. In fact, I was amazed to find out that the public tram/metro system is based on the "honor system." Every once and awhile supposedly a guard comes around to check if you have a pass but I never saw one the entire time I was there, and we took the metro over 6 times! It is amazing to me that the culture is so trusting and clean. I felt like I suddenly went from a crazy, busy, hectic, hot, overwhelming city to an up north escape. It reminded me of how my family travels up north in the summers for peace and quiet. Also, everyone speaks English! This is a huge difference! Not only do people speak English, but they speak well. I was thankful for this only after I got off the plane, because the rest of the time I was with Nora and she was able to communicate in Norwegian for us.

There is absolutely something to say for visiting a foreign country with someone who knows the country well. I was able to sit back and relax because Nora knows the tram system, the great places to go, how to order food gluten free in a restaurant, etc. etc. It was comforting and helpful to have her leading me around, eager to show me her hometown.

On Saturday we took a ferry to one of the nearby islands right off of Oslo (there are many) and found a place in the rocks to swim! Everyone was changing right out in the open, grilling with portable grills and jumping straight from the rocks into the FREEZING cold ocean. We did the same. I was amazed at how people of all generations freely stripped down to put their bathing suits on... in public! It was not common to go swimming without a suit, however, which I found to be odd considering the fact that people were stripping down in front of strangers. Afterwards we took the ferry back to the shore and took a tram all the way up into the hills. There we visited the world famous ski jump and a ski museum and were able to go all the way to the top for a great view of Oslo! It was breathtaking! No words can describe how beautiful it is to have a city nestled in a shoreline of rocks and creeping ocean caves. It was also SO GREEN. The forest creeps between houses in neighborhoods and into the hills and mountains behind the city buildings. It is so bizarre to see a city nestled in a forest. The tram literally drops you off in the middle of the woods sometimes with nothing but a dirt road and forest paths to trek through. It is such an amazing experience!

Later that night we returned to the house to gather some hot dogs, marshmallows and wine and took it out to a lake near the house. We swam into the evening, drank wine on the dock and cooked out the hot dogs and marshmallows. It was a perfect summer night, full of girl-talk and laughter! We had a blast. I was so cozy in the 55 degree weather, snuggled up in bed later that night! I never wanted to leave. 

Madrid

Studying (and traveling) abroad is not all cupcakes, rainbows and unicorns. Monj and I have a TON of fun and have learned to stop complaining and being as high maintenance as we used to be, but we are getting tired. Tired of the heat, tired of the constant harassment and tired of everything being so difficult to access. This is not meant as a complaint post, because every single day we wake up and brush our teeth together in the bathroom and smile in the mirror at one another, happy to be living yet another day in a glorious European city. It is, however, OK to admit that constantly traveling can be tiring and difficult.

We decided to tackle Madrid this past weekend. We spent hours picking a good hotel, finding a bike tour on the web, teaching ourselves the metro system via the internet, and reading up in books and blogs all about the city. We took the metro to the bus to the airplane to the metro to FINALLY arrive. And Madrid was awesome!! We saw the Prado Art Museum (world renown) and botanical gardens on Friday. We also walked to the Fountain of Neptune, Retiro Park and along several plazas and boulevards. We carried our guidebook, sandwiches and maps with us so that we never missed a beat. By the time we got to the evening we were EXHAUSTED but restaurants don't even open for dinner until 9 or 9:30pm (the locals won't eat food until about 11) so we rested in the hotel and then found a nice restaurant in a small cobblestone street nestled in the La Latina neighborhood.

Saturday also went as planned. We got up early and did a 3 hour bike tour to see every highlight and major building! Our guide explained the history behind parks, the Royal Palace, Plaza Mayor, the city hall, National Bank and several other well-known landmarks. We even stopped for a drink with the tour group and we got a lot of good pictures! Afterwards we found some frozen yogurt in the shade and walked to find the Temple Debod and San Francisco Basilica. By then it was late afternoon and we rested in the hotel for the evening before dinner.

Madrid was over 100 degrees Fahrenheit on both days we visited. Not only was it hot but the sun shone like there was no tomorrow. The heat was inescapable and everyone walked around pouring sweat. People seemed edgy, tense and irritable because of the heat. To add to this atmosphere, an annual, national gay pride event had taken over the town for the weekend. Monj and I had no idea until we arrived that we would be greeted with THRONGS of drunk people, ready to riot. Both supporters and opponents flooded the streets. Police shut down major roads (like Gran Via!) and wouldn't allow any cars. People carried flags and shouted all day and all night. There was beer and loud music everywhere. It was an unbelievable sight and probably could be likened to a football Saturday at an American university.

We tried to do our best to see historic Madrid and enjoy the city despite these obstacles (and honestly we succeeded) but we also reached a breaking point. On Saturday night, after we had been out and about all day, sweating and sightseeing, we sat down to eat dinner around 10pm in a nice restaurant that we found in the center of town. Service was slow, as usual, but we were staying patient though we were tired. The drunkards at the bar near us began spilling their party over into our area, putting their wine glasses and drinks on the edge of our table. We said nothing for awhile and let it go. After about 20 minutes one of the really drunk men (wearing a wig of pink feathers and smelling of beer and sweat) sat down at our table with us. He said nothing but simply sat there. Monj and I looked at each other and did nothing.

The waitress came over and asked us if he was drunk. We told her yes he was and wondered if maybe we could move to a quieter back room of the restaurant? She said she would see what she could do and supposedly went to get her manager. Meanwhile, the man sitting with us and his friends started getting disruptive. We turned and politely told them we were eating dinner and this was our table, there were other open seats at the bar for them. (They had no reason to be sitting at our table where we were trying to eat a meal.) No sooner had we said that and all hell broke loose. The entire party of drunkard men started coming at us. They were screaming in Spanish and pointing and making fun of us. One of them had to be restrained. Naturally I burst into tears as my adrenaline soared. The managers had now come to investigate with the waitress. All three of the restaurant workers stood by, watching this happen, and conferring. They did nothing to help Monj and I extricate ourselves immediately from the situation.

We contemplated walking out the door but the men were blocking the door and we had not yet paid for half of the meal we had consumed. Instead we stood up and went to another room in the restaurant, now visibly upset. The men were still screaming and carrying on after us. At this point the entire restaurant full of people was staring at what was occurring as management looked on. Finally, the waitress and managers came to find us and told us "they will protect us" and that they "called the police" and that "the men will be leaving." But frankly, we were angry. Had we been in that exact same situation with a parent or a male friend or a boyfriend we are POSITIVE the situation would not have happened, or it at least would have gone another way. Both of us sat with new, full glasses of (free) wine at another table and sobbed about how we wished our dads were there to tell the men to shut up or help us move to another table sooner.

Monj and I do not feel helpless traveling alone. In fact, we feel quite the opposite. We do everything ourselves. Planning our weekend and day trips, making food to take out for the day, packing bags, setting alarms to wake up (we NEVER sleep enough) and the list goes on and on... But we also feel like we aren't taken seriously all of the time. As two, young, women, students we feel discriminated against. This may sound dramatic, but this wasn't the first time. In fact, when we walked into that same restaurant the wait staff didn't take us seriously. They asked if maybe we just wanted to have a drink at the bar instead of eat the nice (slightly expensive) food. We assured them no, we were there for dinner. Just because we are two young women doesn't mean we can be taken advantage of, openly harassed or judged.

Traveling is also very exhausting! Especially in the summer heat. People make sightseeing sound like fun and games but in reality you work for every pleasurable moment you get. On the positive side, we have started to appreciate every little windfall and every little thing that goes right, even more. When something we plan works out well we give each other a pat on the back and enjoy! We also recognize how privileged we are to even be on this trip, especially together, and thank our lucky stars with frequency. It is just important to tell the truth: you're not always happy and smiling when you're traveling- there's a lot of hard shit, too.  

Tarragona

After a LATE (as in returning at 3:15 a.m.) night out Monj and I awoke this morning to tackle yet another day trip. We took the train to Tarragona, about an hour and 20 minutes away via a commuter train along the coast, to see the Roman ruins and enjoy the beach. Tarragona was "muy preciosa" (beautiful) and easy to navigate! After we got off the train there were signs to the old Roman city center. Here we saw the amphitheatre, cathedral, Jewish quarter, torres (towers), circus area and other various ruins. Present day Tarragona is literally built upon the old Roman city and back in its heyday was the most important Roman center in the area! I had never in my life seen such complete ruins from this era. It wasn't just like looking at old encased pieces of stone, but rather a complete amphitheater!

After a few hours in the ruins we took a stroll down to the beach and took in the sun and the sand. Tarragona's beach is the most beautiful beach I have ever been to. It hugs the Mediterranean with a skinny area of white sand. The water is turquoise and you can walk out for several feet before it even begins to drop off. The beach is like a tropical island or something. It is also slightly more secluded than the beaches in Barcelona or even Sitges. The water was perfectly clean, as was the sand, and it was easier to get away from people who smoked, etc. because people had more personal space. We loved the beach and didn't catch a train home until almost 8pm!  

Monj and I were really proud of each other for getting out of bed, working out the tram system and spending a wonderful day of history and relaxation outside of Barcelona. Once again we were reminded of the ticking clock of summer as we realized this is one of our final Sundays here in Barcelona! We are traveling the next two weekends and will be scrambling to finish some final shopping and packing on the final Sunday! It is insane how time flies.

Montserrat

Yesterday we had the pleasure of taking a day trip with our host brother Didac and his girlfriend Anna to Montserrat, about 45 minutes from Barcelona by car. For the first time in weeks Monj and I were able to sit back and relax and let someone else do the planning. As natives of Catalonia, Didac and Anna were eager to show us around and explain everything we were seeing. We had no idea what to expect. When we arrived we took the "cremallera" (directly translating to "zipper" in English, but actually a type of tram) to the main square area of Montserrat. There we saw the church/cathedral, main town area and the trail-heads of many paths. Some people have apartments and there is one hotel and a couple of restaurants in this area, too.

Montserrat is nearly impossible to explain. We didn't really understand fully what it was until after we saw the informational video about it in the museum on top of the mountain. It is a mountain where monks live. It is also home to the black virgin, a Christian miracle story. People come from all around the world and wait in line for HOURS to see the statue of the black virgin (made hundreds of years ago) and hold their children up to it, for blessings for a good life. We saw this line but did not want to wait to see the black virgin ourselves. There is also a world acclaimed boys choir (ages 6-12) which is part of a boarding school. The little boys live on the mountain in dorms and go to school to be a part of this elite choir while they are young. It is very prestigious to get in to.

While the mountain is known for being a holy Christian spot, it is also known as an interfaith, spiritual, and philosophical place. There is a giant library in the main area housing many books of these genres. People travel internationally to hike the dozens of trails all around the mountain. You can also scale the 90 degree rock walls with proper climbing equipment. We saw some people doing this! Didac and Anna took us along one path, a 20 minute but DIFFICULT hike through the steep and narrow stone mountain. When we reached the end there was a place to pray, supposedly where the black virgin was first found in the year 880. This place was small and filled with candles and chairs. People make wishes and ask God to keep them safe or thank God for something good that has happened to them. An attached room was filled with pictures, wedding dresses, notes and other everyday artifacts. People wrote notes, much like the wailing wall, to God. It was unbeilevably emotionally moving. Suddenly, after climbing in the heat, along a steep and windy, rocky, path we came to an oasis where people were thanking God for all that they had. Some people had left helmets from bike accidents, giving thanks for life after their accident. Others had carried pictures of their children, asking God to watch over them for another blessed year. While this was inherently a Christian place of worship it was also very spiritual and open to all religions. I didn't feel out of place, but rather I felt connected to nature in the middle of the mountain and thus, closer to God.

Monj and I joked after we made a wish and as we were walking back along the path that suddenly the intensity of the day-trip had risen to a level that was unexpected. We commented that this seemed so "duro" (intense, hard) but came at such a good time for us. Sometimes all you need is some perspective to be thankful for everything in your life and to see others who are doing the same. After we got back to the main square we entered the church to peek around and take some pictures. A very accomplished women's choir was singing a famous classical piece. We sat down and closed our eyes and suddenly I felt tears rolling down my cheeks. This place, this fresh air, this sudden quiet (after the loud city), this interfaith haven, this spot of worship and this outpouring of thanks for life was so overwhelming and just so beautiful. 

La Mitad y Valencia!

Most of me cannot believe that we are halfway done. The first day, arriving in the airport five weeks ago somehow feels like an eternity ago, yet when I think of all we have done and how fast it went I feel like gripping the edge of my seat and screaming for everything to slow down- like I'm on an airplane with turbulence and I can't control the descent. It's too odd knowing that we have said goodbye to everyone we met in the first five weeks and will be welcoming new faces for the next five. There is still a lot to explore and I cannot imagine going home now.

During our five day break from classes Monj and I went to Valencia, España a few hours south of Barcelona to see something different. Additionally, this past Monday was Día de San Juan here in Spain, which is celebrated a lot like July 4th at home in the States. Since Valencia is on the beach we were able to see all the "hogueras" (bonfires) and people burning "trastos viejos" (useless objects) from the year (on Sunday night). The moon was full and beautiful and we had a lovely dinner of paella beach-side. While in Valencia we also got a chance to see the museum of science and the aquarium, both of which are in a beautiful modern complex built in an old dried up riverbed. Valencia has a lot of green space with parks for miles to walk and pass the time. We also went to the "old town" city center and viewed the ceramic museum, Roman ruins and Torres de Serranos among other various historical sites.

The Roman ruins were SO powerful for me and also moving. It was amazing to see the remnants of what used to be a thriving city, a couple thousand of years ago, now nothing more than mere sand and a chipped block. The museum is underground and anthropologists have put walkways with glass floors over the ruins which can be seen just feet below. We saw old bones in the cemetery, what used to be their bath house, where their Forum took place, where they cured their food like fish and wine, and even an old street convergence. The museum has video screens every few hundred feet to show what a digital reconstruction of the area we were looking at was like 2000 years ago. Its hard to believe that the Romans were so advanced for their time, with aqueducts and written records and an entire system of government! While this may seem obvious, it is mindblowing to view this in person. It suddenly makes the world feel very old and the place you are standing on very sacred.

We took our Valencia trip as a break from the reality and grind of waking up at 7:45 every morning for school. It was nice to sleep in a quiet, air conditioned hotel and eat when we chose. Now, back in Barcelona, we start new classes tomorrow. Life here has finally become a routine, which is something that I never thought would happen. Monj and I are grateful for this sense of comfort in day-to-day practices but also have to keep reminding each other that we are not just living the regular, day-to-day, humdrum life like we do at home. We are in a foreign city, speaking a foreign language 24/7 and trying to learn something new all the time! While it would be easy to go to the beach every day after school, we are still trying to find new activities, new hikes, new cobblestone streets and different neighborhoods to explore on our free time. I never want to feel like anything in Barcelona is redundant or "the usual." I would rather that life in Barcelona feel frustrating and hard at times than  mundane simply for the sake of doing what is comfortable.

If you take this philosophy and idea of a "staycation" to your daily life at home, imagine how different life would be! If suddenly you were no longer just trying to "get through" another week but actually had something fabulous to look forward to after classes, after work or after your usual "routine" what would your "routine" really be? I am finally realizing how caging my desire for ritual can be. Finally seeing how every week can be special for some reason, makes life so much more worth living. While I miss some things from home (like comfort food and yoga) I can see how these things blend into the fabric of my daily grind at home and are forgotten. It is amazing what a little foreign perspective can do for you.

As a sidenote: I've decided against my obsession with getting fat from eating too much over here. I am fully of the mindset now that I better enjoy it while I can because sooner rather than later I will be stuck in the cold, dark, Michigan winter, craving a large bowl of Spanish paella, steaming with meat and veggies. 

Domingo

I’m in love with how everyone here shows affection. I don’t mean only physically, but also emotionally. From the simple yet meaningful double-cheek-kiss given upon greeting an old friend (or meeting a new one), to the outlandish display of warmth between lovers on the street, Barcelona is covered in love. Not only love between lovers but also love between friends. Several times Monj and I have seen siblings or girlfriends holding hands on the street. We turn to each other and wonder why this is so much more accepted here than back at home. We have also lately been reflecting on how European style bends the "normal" gender barriers; the boundaries and roles that have been so blatantly assigned by American society. For example, in clothing stores sometimes we literally cannot tell where the men’s and women’s clothing sections begin and end. Styles bend so much farther than in the states. Men here get away with wearing skinny jeans, “capris” (pantalones piratas, literally translating to pirate pants), ballet flats and tank tops while women get away with wearing sports jerseys, loose fitted jeans and combat boots. This is not only different but also slightly refreshing. There is less pressure to be something... if that makes sense.

On Sunday we had one of our best days in Barcelona (although lately we feel like everyday has been a “GREAT DAY!”). We were planning on going to the Picasso Museum because it is free on Sundays, but when we arrived the line was laughable- down the street and around the corner. So we changed our plans. We found some gelato in Born (with a gluten free ice cream cone!!) and then walked over to parque Ciutadella. We were immediately taken aback by the amount of people! Nearly every square inch of grass was claimed! Families with small children playing games in the field, lovers stretched out on picnic cloths, and friends laughing and reading. Our ears drove us towards a group of people gathered in a circle playing guitar, banging on several types of drums (some makeshift beer bottles) and dancing. The circle was always in flux- people came and went. Others sat around them in the shade of nearby trees, laying with friends and tapping along to the impromptu beat. We joined the people and sat back in the grass, closing our eyes and hearing the murmur of all the voices around us blend with the music.

To me this felt like heaven. It was so relaxing! Everyone was outside, hundreds of people sharing this public space and enjoying the weather together. While it sounds cheesy, I felt an invisible sense of camaraderie. The community was warm and welcoming. The affection in the park was overwhelming. Later on Monj and I walked to the pond and rented a boat for a half an hour to putz around with oars, “rowing” around and laughing. I think it was one of the best Sunday afternoons of my entire life.   

Ps- On Saturday night we went to a speakeasy! We read in some notes given to us by friends who studied in Barce before us that a “modern” speakeasy was located off la rambla. We had to walk to an unmarked door in the northwest corner of a plaza, ring a buzzer and stand quietly. The door opened and we walked up several flights of stairs. When we went inside it was like being transported back to the 1920’s! We felt like we were characters in the Great Gatsby! Everything was decorated with antiques and dim lighting. We had a blast drinking wine and chatting with the bartender.

Coincidentally, the next day we saw the bartender walking in our neighborhood of Gracia (MILES away from the bar) and made eye contact with her! It amazes us daily how small this city can seem…